How the standout SS26 show in September intertwined with the history of (180) Strand spanning five hundred years.
25 · 09 · 2025
Conventional dining etiquette took a backseat as models donned in period-inspired armor strided across the dining table at 180 Strand. Fortunately, the open bar was separate (I can attest—I enjoyed more mocktails than Kat in Season One of Euphoria) which prevented any accidents in this medieval setting. I was fortunate to find a seat at the table, as designer Marie Lueder's Convivium collection continued a nearly five-century-old tradition. Shifting from the rave of February, her September show was staged as a banquet, celebrating the beauty of shared experiences while drawing inspiration from the vibrancy of medieval celebrations.
The venue's significance cannot be overstated. In the era close to my mother's birth, Tudor Merchant Sir Thomas Gresham established the original Royal Exchange (the very place where The Strand is now) to allow London to compete with Amsterdam in financial might. The Strand evolved into the crucial link between the City’s commercial hub and Westminster’s political realm (no pun intended). It was adorned with merchant palaces where England's growing commercial elite displayed their affluence. By 1608, a New Exchange was erected directly opposite The Strand, solidifying the street's reputation as London’s original site for luxury.
Lueder’s distinctive blend of medieval armor with sportswear, seen in reimagined football jerseys paired with tailored, sculptural attire, creates a direct connection from Tudor merchant aspirations to contemporary artistic expression. Using materials such as British-woven waxed cotton and regenerated nylon sourced from ocean plastics, Marie Lueder’s methodology reflects the guild system that emerged during the Tudor period. The emphasis on sustainability is notable, as the guild system revolved around supporting various artisanal traditions, something Lueder intuitively grasps.
This illustrates London’s remarkable continuity. The Strand remains the crossroads of tradition and innovation, where driven individuals utilize craft to engage in broader cultural dialogues. Lueder’s show transcended mere fashion; it was a continuation of a narrative that began when Tudor merchants envisioned London as a global center, demonstrating that the most impactful innovations stem from a profound connection to history.
By converting the table into a runway, Lueder implies that today’s fashion shows fulfill a similar purpose—spaces where cultural influence is navigated and London asserts its creative prowess on the world stage. The choice of 180 Strand brings this historical journey full circle. Where Tudor merchants once traded silk and spices, modern creatives now exchange thoughts on identity and craftsmanship. This highlights London’s brilliance in adaptive reuse—transforming spaces while respecting their legacy. It resonates perfectly with British Fashion Council’s new SH-EO Laura Weir, who insists that London is not falling behind. The BFC's remarkable efforts with the NEWGEN initiative indicate the contrary: London is undeniably back.
Words by Anya Athwal.
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Table manners were overlooked as models paraded in period drama armor marched across the dining table at 180 Strand. Fortunately, the open bar was located separately.