A bustling weekend at one of Europe's premier club festivals, combined with a stay at an exceptionally unique hotel...
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Those unfamiliar with the Reeperbahn have little idea of what to expect. To clarify; the Reeperbahn is a street that hosts the eponymous festival. It has a storied history throughout the 20th century due to its connection with The Beatles and its reputation as one of Europe's most famous red-light districts. Today, this vibrant and noisy kilometer-long stretch is filled with hundreds of bars, clubs, venues, restaurants, casinos, sex shops, and beer-selling kiosks. Additionally, for four days each year, a massive festival takes place right in the middle of it all.
The main festival site, featuring the expansive outdoor Spielbude XL stage along with numerous bars and food vendors, is just one component of this enormous event. The Reeperbahn Festival also includes an official ‘festival village’ next to Millerntor Stadium, home to St. Pauli football team, and makes use of an impressive 70 venues, showcasing acts across indie, rock, electronica, jazz, and rap from around the world. Alongside this, there is an extensive conference with readings, panels, discussions, and award ceremonies. It’s the largest club festival in Europe, and frankly, it’s not for those who shy away from the beautiful chaos of large crowds.
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Luckily, Clash provides a cozy refuge from the exhilarating excitement. On the opposite side of the aforementioned stadium lies one of the most unique buildings in any city worldwide. Known by various names, let's refer to it simply as The Bunker. It’s a large anti-aircraft tower from WWII that has recently been transformed into a plant-filled urban oasis with around 10,000 square meters of green space. Inside its concrete walls and across more than 10 floors, it features a bar, restaurant, coffee shop, several venue spaces, a music school, a climbing wall, a UFC gym, and at the top, the REVERB hotel by Hard Rock.
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Arriving Thursday night (even though the festival kicks off on Wednesday), we dive straight into the heart of the action. After a brief stroll along the Reeperbahn to get our bearings, we head to Molotow (a major alternative music venue in Hamburg) and venture down to the basement to see Cardiff’s Slate. This four-piece band excels in crafting dramatic, moody post-punk that transports the audience to a cloud-covered Welsh mountaintop. A selection of new tracks highlights the set, creating a trance-like atmosphere thanks to the intuitive rhythm section and the commanding stage presence of frontman Jack Davies, whose captivating gestures vividly illustrate the lyrics.
After a quick stop at Spielbude XL to catch a few songs from a Korean math rock band named Dabda, who merge the sounds of Toe and Pom Poko, we navigate to one of the side streets in pursuit of the BETTY venue. A key piece of advice for travelers in Hamburg: these side streets are filled with surprises and some of the finest bars and restaurants. We arrive just in time for Unpeople. The British rockers deliver an entertaining performance, combining raw, angular heavy grooves with catchy melodies. They radiate infectious energy, with heartfelt choruses discussing the pressures of life and breakdowns. They appear poised to become a modern version of beloved UK rock bands like Don Broco and Twin Atlantic, adding a heavier element to the Reeperbahn Festival lineup.
The final act of the night is a stark contrast in tone and energy. Dry Cleaning performs at the notoriously difficult-to-pronounce Uebel & Gefährlich venue; a room with a capacity of 1000, situated within the expansive structure. As one of the festival's biggest international acts, the venue is packed; however, the band’s abstract lyrics, unconventional song structures, and the cool yet awkward stage presence of frontwoman Florence Shaw don’t garner much enthusiasm from the audience.
Day two begins with a buffet breakfast at the delightfully comfortable La Sala restaurant at the top of The Bunker, followed by a hotel tour. Having opened last April, the music-themed REVERB features a Hard Rock shop selling St. Pauli football merchandise and items from local businesses (Fritz Cola is a favorite), plus a bar crafted by a renowned German chef and over 130 rooms, some specifically designed for touring bands. Thanks to an interesting initiative from the local government, these artist rooms can only be booked through the city and are available to musicians at a lower cost.
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After exploring the friendly, green, and ultra-alternative St. Pauli area—an absolute must for Reeperbahn Festival attendees—we return to the streets for some afternoon musical experiences. First up is a set by Dortmund's Patina Records at the lovely Mojo Jazz Cafe. The spirited rap collective delivers an enthusiastic performance, marking a welcome first foray into German-language rap for this writer. Nearby,
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An eventful weekend at one of Europe's premier club festivals, combined with a stay at a remarkably distinctive hotel... --- No one can adequately prepare the inexperienced for the