In celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, Atwood Magazine has invited artists to contribute a series of essays that explore themes of identity, music, culture, and inclusion.
Today, Emilee Petersmark, the co-lead singer of the indie folk band The Crane Wives, presents a playlist featuring her favorite tracks from K-indie groups and recalls the significance of discovering the indie music scene in Seoul's Hongdae neighborhood during Atwood Magazine's AAPI Heritage Month series.
Emilee Petersmark has been part of the beloved Grand Rapids band The Crane Wives for 15 years. Alongside her musical career, she has also gained acclaim as a visual artist, creating original works and commissions for musicians like the Accidentals and Melophobix. She has a growing collection of songs that delve into her adoption trauma and the experience of being a queer Korean adoptee in the Midwest. These personal songs will be featured on a solo record set to release in the fall of 2026, providing listeners with insight into her passionate and restless spirit.
By Emilee Petersmark of The Crane Wives
For most of my life, Korea felt like an imaginary land, existing only in the stories told by my adoptive parents. Their portrayal was of South Korea in the mid to late ’80s, a nation recovering from years of war and colonization, caught in the balance between long-standing traditions and rapid Western modernization that surged following the Korean War.
For a significant part of my life, my ties to that land were made of fragments – a toddler’s hanbok hanging like a costume in the back of the closet, K-pop songs illegally downloaded onto our family computer, and a line of awkwardly written Hangul signifying a birth name I couldn't even pronounce.
It wasn't until 2022 that I returned to Seoul. After 35 years in America, I felt more like an outsider arriving on another planet than a long-lost daughter coming home. My dyed hair, piercings, and tattoos made me stand out, and ajumas clicked their tongues and glared at me with visible disapproval on the streets. An elderly man approached me in a park, wrongly assuming I was a prostitute after I revealed my shoulders. No one spoke to me in Korean; it felt as though I had a flashing sign above my head declaring “FOREIGNER,” causing locals to keep their distance.
Initially, it was heartbreaking. I was a visitor in the city where I was born, an outsider among those who shared my heritage. The thought that I might never belong there and that I was too American to be considered Korean was crushing.
However, everything changed when I discovered the indie music scene in Hongdae.
As a touring musician, finding live music during my time in Korea was essential. While I enjoy K-pop, I aimed to connect with local bands that mirrored my own experiences of hauling gear through back doors.
What I discovered were my people – sporting dyed hair, piercings, and tattoos. Packed venues filled with the scent of cigarettes and beer, where the music was so vibrant it heated the air. I blended seamlessly in those spaces, one among many Koreans swaying to the rhythm. That sense of belonging became addictive.
I wanted to share this music and experience with others who might feel adrift in the AAPI diaspora. Here’s a K-indie playlist of bands that have transformed the imaginary version of Korea in my mind into something relatable and familiar. I hope you enjoy it.
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**Zozno – "Sofa Traveler"**
This track leans a bit more towards twee than my usual taste, but it holds a special significance as my first real link to the Korean music community. Zozno is a seasoned indie artist in Seoul who conducts walking tours of Hongdae, highlighting prominent indie venues and their roles in the local music scene. He taught me a lot about how artists navigate such a crowded city. Years after we met, he helped me secure my first gig in Seoul. His music stands out from many Korean songwriters, as it sidesteps typical romantic themes in favor of sharing travel experiences (which is novel for many, given that Korean citizens faced strict travel restrictions until the late ’80s). This song captures the simplicity of couch surfing and the connections made through travel.
**Bulgogidisco – "Let’s Dance"**
I've seen this band multiple times during my trips to Seoul. They appeared on a playlist I made in preparation for my first visit, and they solidified their status as a favorite with an unforgettable performance at the DMZ Peace Festival in 2022, where the mosh pit erupted. While they are a prominent act in Korea, you can still catch them in smaller venues. Their energy is well-suited for intimate settings, reminiscent of the pop-punk groups I adored in high school. This particular song features an engaging call and response that anyone can join, regardless of
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Emilee Petersmark, the co-lead vocalist of the indie folk quartet The Crane Wives, presents a playlist featuring her favorite songs from K-indie bands and reflects on the significance of her exploration of the indie music scene in Seoul's Hongdae neighborhood for Atwood Magazine's AAPI Heritage Month series.