Paris Fashion Week SS/26: A Photographic Record by James Frost

      Photographer and Contributing Editor James Frost captures the sights and scenes of an exhilarating Spring/Summer menswear season in Paris. From romantic touches at Amiri and Dries Van Noten to sharp tailoring and extravagant designs at EGONLAB and Wales Bonner, the city was alive with celebrity presence during a season characterized by historic milestones and unmissable collections.

      Paris Fashion Week reached unprecedented levels of heat – both literally and metaphorically. As a heatwave covered the city, editors, stylists, and stars navigated between shows, fashioning makeshift fans from paper invitations.

      On Wednesday, the EGONLAB presentation made a striking impression right away. Shirts showcased exaggerated, wide collars, transforming formality into playful absurdity, while models donned sculpted, armor-like hoods and hats adorned with delicate white lace. Despite the oppressive heat, the models confidently strutted down the runway.

      Next, I proceeded immediately to Wales Bonner, which provided a softer contrast. This show celebrated the brand's 10th anniversary and marked its return to the Paris schedule after a brief break. The designer drew inspiration from the Superfine theme at this year’s Met Gala, where she dressed celebrities like Lewis Hamilton, FKA Twigs, and Jeff Goldblum. For SS/26, Wales Bonner presented a collection that reaffirmed its core aesthetic, skillfully blending classic sportswear with tailored precision.

      Myles Lewis-Skelly, one of Arsenal football club’s promising young talents, walked effortlessly as the star-studded front row looked on, featuring musicians Dave and Pusha T, photographer Gabriel Moses, and actor Will Poulter.

      The following day, Issey Miyake’s IM Men showcased a more abstract sophomore collection. Inspired by 20th-century ceramicist Shoji Kamoda and starting with dancers choreographed by Delphine Gaborit, the show resembled performance art rather than a conventional runway.

      Against two large metallic platforms and surrounded by lush greenery, IM MEN displayed a range of contradictions. The clothing contrasted traditional Japanese workwear with forward-thinking tailoring, generating a sense of movement and vibrancy throughout.

      Later that day, I attended one of the week’s most eagerly awaited shows: Dries Van Noten. Shifting the mood toward romance, Dries explored traditional house codes – bright colors, bold florals, and fluid silhouettes – delivering a collection that felt both faithful and fresh. As models emerged en masse for the grand finale, an enthusiastic crowd rose to applaud newly appointed Creative Director Julian Klausner on a successful menswear debut.

      This season, Feng Chen Wang held an open casting call, aiming for a fresh and diverse lineup. Promoted on the brand’s Instagram, the call attracted individuals from Feng Chen Wang’s established community to walk the runway, including longtime friend Russell Westbrook.

      The collection itself was deeply personal, reflecting Feng’s enduring connections to nature. Models carried hydrangeas, each matching their monochromatic outfits, hinting at Feng’s ongoing use of a bespoke botanical dyeing technique, ensuring each piece is unique. Central to the collection was a renewed approach to tailoring, with pleats and lighter fabrics infusing movement and fluidity into classic suiting, making the garments come alive on the runway.

      Bluemarble’s runway resembled a forest floor, with moss, bark, and loose foliage scattered underneath the models’ feet. The collection embodied that same organic looseness, featuring earthy tones accented by bold reds and blues. Denim was both distressed and intricately detailed, with flowing embroidery cascading down the sides. Oversized, cushiony bucket hats were carefully placed on heads, weighed down by multiple metal pins. Tina Knowles watched from the front row with her niece Angie Beyince, supporting her grandson Julez Smith, who was walking in his third show for the brand.

      Following that, Mike Amiri transformed his expansive show space into a Chateau-style hotel, with the runway centered around an opulent marble fountain and walls adorned with rich greenery. The attire was unapologetically dandyish, showcasing waistcoats, pinstripes, and draped tailoring. Combining polish with a casual vibe, the collection exuded a sense of luxurious coolness, perfect for a summer escape to the French Riviera.

      Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro’s show examined deconstruction, reimagining daily garments by dismantling and reconstructing them through a streetwear lens. The minimalist presentation was accompanied by a solo percussionist, who creatively used just two pens and his mouth to deliver a fresh take on popular tracks.

      On Friday, A$AP Rocky’s AWGE brand exhibited its second collection in Paris, transforming the Temple de l’Etoile into a mock courtroom; a playful nod to the rapper’s recent legal issues. Models navigated through metal detectors, some sporting painted black eyes and still in hair rollers, all set to the rhythm of Rocky’s unreleased tracks, rumored to feature on his upcoming 'Don’t Be Dumb' album. Rihanna

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